Frequently Asked Questions

The growing block should be left in the bag (and inside the cardboard box) after opening.
After removing the perforated cardboard part and cutting the X shape, enough oxygen will reach the block, which locally encourages the formation of mushrooms. The flaps of the cut plastic bag should also be left in place, so that they help retain humidity. The mushrooms will be able to grow through the small gaps without any problems.

Your kit contains a living organism, so we recommend that you open it upon receipt. If you do not have the opportunity to do so, you can store it unopened in the refrigerator for 4 weeks (except for pink oyster mushrooms). The metabolism of the mycelium slows down significantly at this time.

The pink oyster mushroom is a tropical, heat-loving mushroom, so the set cannot be stored in the refrigerator. Can be stored unopened at room temperature for up to 4 weeks.

During prolonged storage, or storage at room temperature, mushrooms may start to grow inside the bag. This will not affect further use. If the mushrooms are within reach under the cut area, simply remove them, and start fresh.

A grow kit stored at room temperature for a long time will consume all available nutrients after a while and then it will slowly begin to decompose.

You don't have to empty the bottle every time, but it's important to keep the cut area moist. Try 5-10 spritzes at first, then if it seems too dry the next time, try more spritzes, or spray a little more often. If the kit is in an air conditioned room and dries out really fast, making a humidity tent (see below) can help.

To harvest your mushrooms in perfect condition, keep an eye on the caps. The ideal time is when most of the caps have almost completely flattened, but have not yet started to curl upwards.

When harvesting, it is best to remove the entire mushroom cluster and any smaller mushrooms or mushroom parts at the same time so that the mycelium can prepare for the next harvest.

To remove the mushrooms, use a sharp knife and cut them as close to the block as you can. It is important not to leave anything on the block, as any remaining mushroom parts can slowly start to spoil, which can spread to the entire block. There is no need to wash them, as the rest of the mushroom has not come into contact with anything.

In very hot weather, or if you don't have time to spray as often, you can also make a humidity tent. Take a garbage bag or other plastic bag and make many holes in it, about 1 centimeter in diameter. Since mushrooms and mycelium both breathe in oxygen and release carbon dioxide, proper ventilation is essential! Cover the kit with the humidity tent. When spraying, lift up the bag, spray the kit and the inside of the bag, then place back the bag. Once baby mushrooms have appeared, fresh air is especially important, so remove the humidity tent and continue spraying as usual.

Use a humidity tent (see above). When baby mushrooms (also called pins) appear, remove the humidity tent and continue spraying as usual.

If the opened kit looks dry even under a humidity tent, or has dried out between harvests, you can also hydrate it by soaking it. To do this, remove the bag from the box and place it cut side down, in a bowl of cold water for 30 minutes. Then, drain off the excess water and wipe the bag dry, then put it back in the box and continue spraying as usual.

Your first harvest is guaranteed by us, but usually one kit can produce 3-4, rarely even 5 times. The yield depends mostly on the environmental conditions: a delicate balance of humidity, oxygen and light. Since every room has a different microclimate, finding these optimal conditions may require some experimentation.

The first crop (also called flush) is usually the largest, then gradually, at increasingly longer intervals, smaller crops appear as the mycelium consumes all available nutrients and water.

After harvesting, it is useful to let your kit rest for 2-3 days and not humidify it at all. Let it dry out a bit, imitating the weather changes that occur in nature. After 2-3 days, continue humidifying as usual, and with a little patience, the mushrooms will probably appear again. It is not necessary to cut open the bag at another area, it can produce again in the same area.

If it seems too dry, try using a humidity tent (see above). If the new crop hasn't started 3 weeks after harvest, there's still hope! You can also try to kickstart it by soaking the block. To do this, remove the growing block from the box and place it cut side down in a bowl of cold water for 30 minutes. Then, drain off the excess water and wipe the bag dry, then put it back in the box and continue to spray as usual.

If the block shows no signs of life after 4 weeks or turns greenish, it's probably time to say goodbye.

But if you have a garden, you can give it a new life! Crumble it up as mulch in your vegetable or flower beds, or bury it not too deep in a shady spot in your garden. Then cover it with about 10-15 centimeters of organic material: straw, dried grass clippings, leaves or wood chips, and water it occasionally. A few weeks or months later (typically next fall or spring) you can enjoy another crop!

The spent growing block can also be a great addition to your compost pile or worm composter.

The white area you see in the bag is most likely not mold, but the fungal mycelium itself. However, if the kit has been damaged and you discover black, green, or other colored spots on the block, it is possible that other microorganisms have settled on it, contaminating it. If you are unsure, send us a picture and we will be happy to help!

No problem, it's just a little worn from the trip. Try to gently push it back together and leave it unopened for a few days so the mycelium can stich it together. After opening it, use a humidity tent until the baby mushrooms appear (see above). It has no effect on usability.

Oops! You probably waited too long to harvest and your mushrooms have started to spread their spores. Although they are still safe to eat, try picking them a little earlier next time (see above).

Spores are the reproductive material of the mushroom, which it disperses when it matures. In the case of oyster mushrooms, this happens when the edges of the caps flatten, then begin to curl upwards, and the plates at the bottom of the cap open up.

Small amounts of spores are found on all mushrooms and are harmless to consume.

In fact, various fungal spores are found everywhere in the air – constantly – and we are still breathing them in. So they are not unknown to the respiratory tract, and it has defense mechanisms against them.

A small percentage of people may be hypersensitive to spores, typically in cases of existing chronic respiratory diseases, such as asthma. 

Additionally, inhaling large amounts of spores can lead to irritation and allergies in the long term, so it is not recommended for anyone. For example, if someone works on a mushroom farm, it is important to use a protective mask.

A home kit, due to its size, can only produce a negligible amount of spores, and only periodically.

When growing indoors, there are several steps you can take to minimize the risk:

• Pick mushrooms at the right stage of maturity, when most of the caps have almost completely flattened but have not yet started to curl upwards. This will prevent the majority of spore dispersal. For visual help on this, see Detailed User Manual you can find it in the menu.
• Keep the kit in a well-ventilated room (this is also essential for the proper formation of mushrooms), and if possible, not in your bedroom, where you spend several hours a day sleeping.
• Of course, you can keep it outdoors, but you are tied to the weather. Below 10 degrees you won't get much results, and in very hot weather you will have to spray it with water much more often (a fan can help). humidity tent You also have to take into account that insects will like to taste it and climb into it.

The dispersed spores only germinate when they are in permanent contact with a moist environment. If fungus grows on the walls of an apartment, it indicates a serious moisture problem and can occur without a mushroom growing kit, for example in the form of mold. Such a condition requires an urgent architectural inspection.

This can happen with vigorous kits or during long-term storage at room temperature. The filter on the bag allows a small amount of fresh air to reach the mycelium, and in its impatience it starts to produce fruiting bodies. Don't worry, this will not affect further use. If the mushrooms are in an accessible place under the cut area, just remove them, otherwise leave them alone and open as normal.

Growing mushrooms can often take on strange shapes.

If they have unusually long stems and small caps, they probably need more fresh air. Place them in a more ventillated area, or maybe use a fan nearby periodically.

If the edges of the caps are yellowish-brown or cracked, they probably dried out while growing. Mist them more often or use a humidity tent (see above).

If the cap color is pale, they may need more natural light, place them in a brighter location (but not in direct sunlight).

They are probably metabolites, metabolic products that the mycelium uses to break down the less easily accessible nutrients in the block. Their presence is normal and harmless.

This phase sometimes takes a little longer, but if there is no change after 4-5 days, the mushroom pins have probably given up due to insufficient humidity. Don't worry! There is still plenty of nutrients in the block for further mushrooms. Remove all mushroom parts from the block and do not spray for 2-3 days, let the block dry out a bit. You can then reboot the kit by using a humidity tent (see above), or by soaking: take the bag out of the box and place it, cut side down, in a bowl of cold water for 30 minutes. Then drain off the excess water and wipe the bag dry. Put it back in the box and continue to spray as usual.

If you haven't used it before, try making a humidity tent (see above).

Yes, all mushrooms should be thoroughly cooked before consumption. Similar to insect shells, mushrooms contain chitin, which breaks down when heated and becomes digestible. The good news is that it is almost impossible to overcook them, and fresh mushrooms retain their meaty texture even with prolonged cooking.

Every home, especially one with houseplants, compost bins, or fruits stored on the counter, is likely to have a small population of gnats. They can even sometimes be found in water pipes. A mushroom grow kit can also be attractive to gnats, especially during the summer months.

If you notice gnats around your kit, the first step is to try to find and eliminate any other sources.

As a second step, you can make a homemade gnat repellent: add a few drops of dish soap, a tablespoon of vinegar, and a tablespoon of baking soda to a glass of water. Mix it all together and put it in a spray bottle. Spray it around the kit to effectively keep flies away. Do not spray directly on the kit or on the mushrooms!

If the problem persists, you can also use sticky or electric insect traps.